Ready to have your taste buds tantalized? Somaek, a restaurant nestled in a city brimming with culinary innovation, dares to dance on the edge of tradition. It's a place where the familiar meets the unexpected, and Korean flavors get a playful makeover. But is it a success? Let's dive in.
Chef Jamie Bissonnette, a culinary star with a string of acclaimed restaurants under his belt, including Coppa and Little Donkey, is the creative force behind Somaek. Opened in March 2024, this venture pays homage to his Korean mother-in-law, offering an upscale dining experience centered around traditional Korean cuisine. The buzz is already building, with nods from The New York Times and a recent 'Michelin Recommended' designation.
Walking into Somaek is like stepping into a carefully curated blend of worlds. The space is intimate and dimly lit, with a bar on the right and tables to the left. The decor is a beautiful juxtaposition: traditional Korean art and woven lanterns mingle with the soulful sounds of R&B artists like Daniel Caesar. It's a setting that whispers of understated elegance, a clear statement of Somaek's mission to blend Korean culture with a modern sensibility.
Like any great Korean restaurant, Somaek starts with banchan (side dishes). But here's where it gets controversial: unlike many traditional Korean restaurants that offer a generous spread of complimentary side dishes, Somaek charges extra for additional banchan beyond the initial three. However, the quality is undeniable – the Kkakdugi (radish kimchi), Sigeumchi-namul (spinach), and Ueong Jorim (burdock) are fresh and perfectly seasoned. It's a bold choice that prioritizes quality over quantity and traditional customs.
The menu itself, written in Hangul with English phonetic spellings, eases newcomers into the experience. While some dishes seem familiar at first glance, a closer look reveals innovative reinterpretations.
Take the Gwang-eo hwe (fluke sashimi). Served with a trio of dipping sauces – a spicy chojang, sesame oil and salt, and soy sauce with wasabi – alongside ssam (lettuce and perilla leaves) for wrapping, it's a playful invitation to experiment with flavors. This dish, of all, is among the most traditional.
But the Seogogi mandu (beef dumplings) are a different story. These dumplings, shaped unconventionally like a plus sign, are served in a soy sauce and vinegar sauce, garnished with green onion and sesame seeds. Despite the unexpected presentation, they are incredibly flavorful and juicy, reminiscent of a Xiao Long Bao with Korean flavors.
And this is the part most people miss: The mains take Somaek's innovative spirit to the next level. The Jjajangmyeon (black bean noodles) arrive with a generous amount of sauce, offering a complex flavor profile that includes a strong ginger note. The noodles are accompanied by danmuji (pickled daikon radish), which, in this case, falls short, being overly sour.
Finally, there's the Dwaeji (pork) Bulgogi, a dish the restaurant is known for. Replacing the traditional beef with pork and incorporating gochujang (Korean chili paste) into the sauce transforms the dish completely. The pork is perfectly cooked, with a hint of char, and the sauce is a delightful blend of sweet and savory.
Somaek is a place where tradition meets innovation. While not every dish hits the mark with the same clarity of vision, the restaurant's commitment to reimagining Korean cuisine is undeniable.
What do you think? Does Somaek's approach to tradition resonate with you? Are you a fan of their reinterpretations, or do you prefer a more traditional approach? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
